Our first goal on the way up north was to spot some Southern Wright Whales as we drove up the Great Ocean Road. These whales were nearly hunted to extinction in Australia in the 1800s, but have since recovered somewhat. There are still only estimated to be about 2000 in the wild, but we were determined to try to spot some on this trip! Our first whale-watching location was in Warnambool, and while there were plenty of surfers braving the chilly waters, we didn't see any whales. Our second day along the coastal road did not yield any whale sightings either, but as we camped for the night in Coorong National Park we did come in view of some emus! The park sat on the coast, sheltered in a bit of an inlet, and seemed a good sanctuary for many critters, as was evident by the diversity of tracks left on the beaches. Our third day on the search took us to Port Elliot, where there was even a dedicated Whale Watching Centre. We quickly learned that there had already been whales sighted that morning at Basham's Beach, a short drive back the way we had come, so we hurried off to see if we could catch a glimpse! As we drove the ten minutes back to Basham's we came in view of the ocean. Jason made sure to keep his eye out as we approached the beach, and as soon as we turned onto the road facing the water, a big beautiful tail flipped out of the water as if to wave at us! We got down to the beach and could see at least seven whales in the pod, including a calf, all spread out along the bay. We were lucky enough to see some breaching, lots of tail slaps and fin waves. This was the first time that either of us had witnessed whales in the wild, and we sat very satisfied as we ate our lunch and watched the show.
After the coast, the scenery into the top of Southern Australia changed very quickly. The iconic red dirt appeared in various shades as soon as we were north of Adelaide. The eucalypts quickly changed into scrub again, and we were once again in the Outback. Our fifth day on the road took us to a little town called Coober Pedy, which apparently is the Opal Capital of the World! The road in and out of town is lined with mining equipment and mounds of dirt, and the town itself is almost entirely underground. This is mostly to help the residents deal with the heat, but also lends itself as a tourist attraction. There is an underground hostel, restaurant, bar, many opal shops and underground galleries. You can even take a tour of a working opal mine. This day would also prove to be our first encounter with wild dingos! We camped about an our north of the town, and while we were preparing to cook our dinner, we heard the ominous howl of a pack that was obviously quite near... There was only one other vehicle in view, and they seemed to be getting dinner ready as well. The next thing we knew, a dingo had crept up on Jason as he was making the fire! Posing no threat, just curious as anything, and a bit bold. He was only about 3 feet away from Jason when I spotted him and alerted him to its presence. The dingo spooked easily, but kept coming back to sniff things out until after the sun went down. We would later see many more dingos, but in comparison this one was a really gorgeous dog and one hundred percent dingo, though perhaps a little skinny and scruffy. Truly unforgettable.
The following day we found ourselves at the crossroads of the main highway and Lasseter Highway that would take us to Uluru itself. There was of course a fuel station at this intersection, and as we had steadily watched the price of fuel increase, at this point it was up to $2.19 per litre! The most we ever did see was $2.30, but managed to avoid paying it. Everyone was wise to fuel up at this station, as there were only two more on the road to Uluru, and stations have been known to occasionally run out of fuel in the middle of Australia. Another couple hours of driving along the Lasseter Highway and we found ourselves at our campsite for the night, a place called Curtin Springs, that was a privately owned station turned into a caravan park. For unpowered sites, which of course is all we need, it was free to stay with a suggested donation for using the showers. There were also powered sites, small cabins, and community fire pits. It was here that we met a group of lovely Irish backpackers, and shared a fire and some tea and stories with throughout the night. These travellers had already been through quite a bit of Asia, where we were planning to go after Oz, so we very eagerly picked their brains! They were also heading to the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park the next day, so we decided that we would at least meet up again the next night to watch the sunset over Uluru.
That night while sleeping in our car, we were awakened by a loud noise, what Jason thought was someone yelling. He got out of the car to have a look around, and make sure that no unwatched fires were the cause of distress, but upon not finding anything unusual came back to bed. In the morning, we learned that two of our new Irish friends, while sleeping in their tent, were rudely awakened by someone or something slashing at the outside of their tent in the middle of the night! One of the other Irish gals sleeping further away in her own tent heard this, and rushed to their help, to find that it was a resident emu who was so rudely attempting to enter their tent in the night. I'm sure from inside it seemed as though they were being attacked by some crazy person, but we were all relieved to learn that it was just a curious and inconsiderate animal. Turns out Jason's instincts were right after all, but things had settled down by the time he had gotten outside.
The next day, it was time to greet Uluru at last. As we drove along the highway toward the national park, we began to see the massive red rock rising out of the ground in the distance, and with the sun illuminating its face was such a breathtaking sight. It was hard to believe its enormity from the distance, but we soon found ourselves much closer, and in disbelief of its sheer size and natural beauty. After an educational visit to the Cultural Centre, nestled in Uluru's shadow, we headed to a side of the rock not often seen to take a bit of a walk to a waterhole. There we found a gentle waterfall, and some of our first Aboriginal rock art galleries. The marks and scars in the rock each seemed to have their own stories and legends, accorded to them by the Aboriginal ancestors who used Uluru as a gathering place, an oasis, and a place of spiritual discovery. This place was alive with dreamtime stories, illustrated on the walls by the tribes that frequented this place. The base of the rock was dotted with Sacred Sites, places of much cultural significance to the Anangu people and their Mala ancestors, and that were not permitted to be photographed or disturbed. At the cultural centre we had learned that the Mala, the people who frequently used this landmark, named themselves after the rock wallaby that had since disappeared from the area, but who was depicted in much of the rock art in the Sacred Sites.This place was an oasis for many species, and supported many birds, small marsupials and a multitude of reptiles.
After our waterfall walk, we drove around the base of the rock to the more frequented side, and found it was certainly much busier. We were appalled to find a large metal rail and chains had been pounded into the side of Uluru to assist people in climbing up the rock to the top. Along our journey to this place, we had often been asked if we were going to climb it. We hadn't even a notion that you could, and didn't decide if this was something we wanted to do. At the Cultural Centre, there were many stories and legends surrounding this place, telling of the spiritual journeys that the Mala people took to get here, and that climbing the rock was something that only men at a certain stage in their life were permitted to do, because it was of huge spiritual significance and not to be taken lightly. It was upon learning this and more about their culture that we had decided it was not something we wanted to do, or that we should, out of respect for the place and the people to whom it meant so much. So when we saw this huge scar in the rock, and children and adults running and jumping all over it, we were simply in shock. Not only this, but all along the area were signs asking you to PLEASE not climb Uluru. The chains had been put there in the eighties to encourage more tourism by white folks, but the Traditional Anangu Owners were now in joint partnership trying to petition to have the chains removed. I hope they are soon successful.
We left the crowded area with the signs and went for another walk, passing by some amazing caves that had obviously been inhabited and well used. And more amazingly, we were suddenly alone! It seems that the vast majority of the people who came to visit this place wanted to climb it, conquer it, and be on their way. Very few took the opportunity to enjoy the peace and beauty it had to offer, the surprise waterfalls and pools, and the many varieties of birds that make their homes here. The tall eucalypts were dwarfed by the towering red walls of rock, and we were lost in the unusual landscape. There was something very spiritual about this place; it seemed to us that Uluru had a personality and presence all its own. This was such a landmark moment in our trip, and somewhere we had anticipated being for so long, we savoured every moment.
That afternoon, we headed out a little ways to find our view of the rock for the sunset. We wanted a good spot, so we got there a bit early and had some fun! Jason pulled out his didgeridoo and added to the sounds of the Outback, while I dragged my mat onto a platform and absorbed the sounds and surroundings through my yoga. It was magic. A little later the Irish friends we had made joined us, and we watched the sun transform the rock into a glowing red ember as it sank closer to the horizon, illuminating the few clouds with pinks and purples. Shortly after the sun went down, the moon started to rise, and came up directly behind the centre of Uluru. It was the night before the Super Moon, and its brightness lit up the landscape as we flocked away from the event, back to find a place to camp for the night.
The next day we set out early to explore a lesser known rock formation, in the same park as Uluru, called Kata Tjuta (also known as The Olgas). While covering nearly twice the land and being also quite a lot taller than Uluru, we weren't very familiar with it, and had only seen it in the distance as we approached Uluru the day before. We were immediately stunned by the size, and its resemblance in shape to a giant submarine on the one side. We took the Valley of the Winds walk, which did involve some climbs, but each one rewarded with astonishing views. The highlight was the highest point of the walk, where we ascended many, many rock steps into a channel surrounded by two massive rock faces. As we reached the top of the steps, we could see the amazing valley views and orange rock formations, lit up by the midday sun and perfectly framed between the cliffs. But then, as we turned around to face the direction we came, we could see our ascent and the oasis down below, of trickling waterfalls, birds flying, and green eucalyptus leaves. We lingered here for a while and took some pictures, which sadly could not do it justice, and then climbed back down toward the oasis. When we reached the streams at the bottom, we spotted some beautiful green and yellow budgerigars, who were making their homes in the gum trees. Definitely a special place. We capped off our day with another Uluru sunset and a view of the Super Moon, and said goodbye to these magnificent natural monuments.
Our visit to the Red Centre had one more major stop to be complete, a series of sandstone cliffs and plateaus called King's Canyon. This was much different from the sandstone that makes up Uluru and Kata Tjuta; instead of being smoothed and polished by the elements, the monuments that make up King's Canyon are quite jagged and reminiscent of the Pyramids. We took a long walk around the canyon's rim, about 4 hours, and were again surprised by the hidden oases and groves in the canyon, one aptly named The Garden of Eden. Toward the end of our walk, as we were descending back down the cliffs, we were lucky enough to spot a rock wallaby foraging in the bushes. That night we found a spot to camp at a rest stop, though it was a bit crowded by caravaners who had assembled a sort of village... And we met up with a couple German cyclists who we were expecting to see from our previous night's camp. This lovely couple started their journey in Adelaide, where they had purchased all of their gear, and had so far made it over 1600 kilometers to the Red Centre. We had many enlightening conversations about their travels, the highs and lows of cycling, and how they were possibly carrying their food supply in such slim panniers! We really got on well with this couple, and promised to visit them in Germany one day (on another trip for sure!) where they graciously offered to host us. We all sat around the fire until it was time for bed, keeping nice and toasty warm into the cold desert night.
Something magical happened on our trip through the Red Centre; as were camping in the West MacDonnel Ranges, around our big, beautiful fire, I ventured to give the didgeridoo a real go. I had such a hard time circular breathing in my previous attempts, but for some reason it felt so much more natural this night in the Outback. A couple really intense efforts, and I could feel what it was I was striving for! And it was addictive, once I got a feel for it, I didn't want to give it up. Good thing we had two didgeridoos! Since that night I have been working on my sounds and techniques, and I'm coming along quite well. Very excited to show all of you at home how far I've come!
On our way up to Kakadu National Park, our northernmost destination, we stopped at Karlu Karlu (or the Devil's Marbles) to see some more very unique rock formations, Wycliffe Well, the UFO capital of Australia, and Alice Springs for a bit of civilization and to let our folks know we were still alive! It was an awesome experience, and I had knocked a major destination off my Bucket List at Uluru. Next, we were destined for crocodile country, and the home of Mick Dundee. Kakadu and Arnhem Land is home to the most culturally alive traditions in Aboriginal Australia, and we were about to experience it first-hand. Stay tuned!
Please visit our photo gallery here to see our adventures for yourself!
That night while sleeping in our car, we were awakened by a loud noise, what Jason thought was someone yelling. He got out of the car to have a look around, and make sure that no unwatched fires were the cause of distress, but upon not finding anything unusual came back to bed. In the morning, we learned that two of our new Irish friends, while sleeping in their tent, were rudely awakened by someone or something slashing at the outside of their tent in the middle of the night! One of the other Irish gals sleeping further away in her own tent heard this, and rushed to their help, to find that it was a resident emu who was so rudely attempting to enter their tent in the night. I'm sure from inside it seemed as though they were being attacked by some crazy person, but we were all relieved to learn that it was just a curious and inconsiderate animal. Turns out Jason's instincts were right after all, but things had settled down by the time he had gotten outside.
The next day, it was time to greet Uluru at last. As we drove along the highway toward the national park, we began to see the massive red rock rising out of the ground in the distance, and with the sun illuminating its face was such a breathtaking sight. It was hard to believe its enormity from the distance, but we soon found ourselves much closer, and in disbelief of its sheer size and natural beauty. After an educational visit to the Cultural Centre, nestled in Uluru's shadow, we headed to a side of the rock not often seen to take a bit of a walk to a waterhole. There we found a gentle waterfall, and some of our first Aboriginal rock art galleries. The marks and scars in the rock each seemed to have their own stories and legends, accorded to them by the Aboriginal ancestors who used Uluru as a gathering place, an oasis, and a place of spiritual discovery. This place was alive with dreamtime stories, illustrated on the walls by the tribes that frequented this place. The base of the rock was dotted with Sacred Sites, places of much cultural significance to the Anangu people and their Mala ancestors, and that were not permitted to be photographed or disturbed. At the cultural centre we had learned that the Mala, the people who frequently used this landmark, named themselves after the rock wallaby that had since disappeared from the area, but who was depicted in much of the rock art in the Sacred Sites.This place was an oasis for many species, and supported many birds, small marsupials and a multitude of reptiles.
After our waterfall walk, we drove around the base of the rock to the more frequented side, and found it was certainly much busier. We were appalled to find a large metal rail and chains had been pounded into the side of Uluru to assist people in climbing up the rock to the top. Along our journey to this place, we had often been asked if we were going to climb it. We hadn't even a notion that you could, and didn't decide if this was something we wanted to do. At the Cultural Centre, there were many stories and legends surrounding this place, telling of the spiritual journeys that the Mala people took to get here, and that climbing the rock was something that only men at a certain stage in their life were permitted to do, because it was of huge spiritual significance and not to be taken lightly. It was upon learning this and more about their culture that we had decided it was not something we wanted to do, or that we should, out of respect for the place and the people to whom it meant so much. So when we saw this huge scar in the rock, and children and adults running and jumping all over it, we were simply in shock. Not only this, but all along the area were signs asking you to PLEASE not climb Uluru. The chains had been put there in the eighties to encourage more tourism by white folks, but the Traditional Anangu Owners were now in joint partnership trying to petition to have the chains removed. I hope they are soon successful.
We left the crowded area with the signs and went for another walk, passing by some amazing caves that had obviously been inhabited and well used. And more amazingly, we were suddenly alone! It seems that the vast majority of the people who came to visit this place wanted to climb it, conquer it, and be on their way. Very few took the opportunity to enjoy the peace and beauty it had to offer, the surprise waterfalls and pools, and the many varieties of birds that make their homes here. The tall eucalypts were dwarfed by the towering red walls of rock, and we were lost in the unusual landscape. There was something very spiritual about this place; it seemed to us that Uluru had a personality and presence all its own. This was such a landmark moment in our trip, and somewhere we had anticipated being for so long, we savoured every moment.
That afternoon, we headed out a little ways to find our view of the rock for the sunset. We wanted a good spot, so we got there a bit early and had some fun! Jason pulled out his didgeridoo and added to the sounds of the Outback, while I dragged my mat onto a platform and absorbed the sounds and surroundings through my yoga. It was magic. A little later the Irish friends we had made joined us, and we watched the sun transform the rock into a glowing red ember as it sank closer to the horizon, illuminating the few clouds with pinks and purples. Shortly after the sun went down, the moon started to rise, and came up directly behind the centre of Uluru. It was the night before the Super Moon, and its brightness lit up the landscape as we flocked away from the event, back to find a place to camp for the night.
The next day we set out early to explore a lesser known rock formation, in the same park as Uluru, called Kata Tjuta (also known as The Olgas). While covering nearly twice the land and being also quite a lot taller than Uluru, we weren't very familiar with it, and had only seen it in the distance as we approached Uluru the day before. We were immediately stunned by the size, and its resemblance in shape to a giant submarine on the one side. We took the Valley of the Winds walk, which did involve some climbs, but each one rewarded with astonishing views. The highlight was the highest point of the walk, where we ascended many, many rock steps into a channel surrounded by two massive rock faces. As we reached the top of the steps, we could see the amazing valley views and orange rock formations, lit up by the midday sun and perfectly framed between the cliffs. But then, as we turned around to face the direction we came, we could see our ascent and the oasis down below, of trickling waterfalls, birds flying, and green eucalyptus leaves. We lingered here for a while and took some pictures, which sadly could not do it justice, and then climbed back down toward the oasis. When we reached the streams at the bottom, we spotted some beautiful green and yellow budgerigars, who were making their homes in the gum trees. Definitely a special place. We capped off our day with another Uluru sunset and a view of the Super Moon, and said goodbye to these magnificent natural monuments.
Our visit to the Red Centre had one more major stop to be complete, a series of sandstone cliffs and plateaus called King's Canyon. This was much different from the sandstone that makes up Uluru and Kata Tjuta; instead of being smoothed and polished by the elements, the monuments that make up King's Canyon are quite jagged and reminiscent of the Pyramids. We took a long walk around the canyon's rim, about 4 hours, and were again surprised by the hidden oases and groves in the canyon, one aptly named The Garden of Eden. Toward the end of our walk, as we were descending back down the cliffs, we were lucky enough to spot a rock wallaby foraging in the bushes. That night we found a spot to camp at a rest stop, though it was a bit crowded by caravaners who had assembled a sort of village... And we met up with a couple German cyclists who we were expecting to see from our previous night's camp. This lovely couple started their journey in Adelaide, where they had purchased all of their gear, and had so far made it over 1600 kilometers to the Red Centre. We had many enlightening conversations about their travels, the highs and lows of cycling, and how they were possibly carrying their food supply in such slim panniers! We really got on well with this couple, and promised to visit them in Germany one day (on another trip for sure!) where they graciously offered to host us. We all sat around the fire until it was time for bed, keeping nice and toasty warm into the cold desert night.
Something magical happened on our trip through the Red Centre; as were camping in the West MacDonnel Ranges, around our big, beautiful fire, I ventured to give the didgeridoo a real go. I had such a hard time circular breathing in my previous attempts, but for some reason it felt so much more natural this night in the Outback. A couple really intense efforts, and I could feel what it was I was striving for! And it was addictive, once I got a feel for it, I didn't want to give it up. Good thing we had two didgeridoos! Since that night I have been working on my sounds and techniques, and I'm coming along quite well. Very excited to show all of you at home how far I've come!
On our way up to Kakadu National Park, our northernmost destination, we stopped at Karlu Karlu (or the Devil's Marbles) to see some more very unique rock formations, Wycliffe Well, the UFO capital of Australia, and Alice Springs for a bit of civilization and to let our folks know we were still alive! It was an awesome experience, and I had knocked a major destination off my Bucket List at Uluru. Next, we were destined for crocodile country, and the home of Mick Dundee. Kakadu and Arnhem Land is home to the most culturally alive traditions in Aboriginal Australia, and we were about to experience it first-hand. Stay tuned!
Please visit our photo gallery here to see our adventures for yourself!
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